Cousins: Cool Cuisine from the Mediterranean (Lakeview Living, 1993)

In the shimmering heat in towns along the Mediterranean and on hot sultry days in Turkey, people prepare refreshing, healthy food that won't weigh them down. In Chicago, If you happen to be strolling down Broadway on a hot summer day hoping to catch a lakefront breeze, escape the heat and enjoy a cool healthy vegetarian meal at Cousins.

Located at 2854 N. Broadway, Cousins looks exceptionally ordinary and can easily be mistaken for another Gyro-and--French Fires fast food joint. Once inside, however, the high ceilings and the lazy whirl of a Casablanca fan and the twangy stringed Middle Eastern music will take you far away from Chicago's heavy humidity.

As owner J. Mehmet will explain, the name Cousins expresses the relationship between the Mediterranean countries and the Middle East. Both areas celebrate the abundance of vegetables and grains native to the area, combining them simply but tastefully with delightful results. Seasoned with fresh dill and just a touch of garlic, appetizers and main dishes consisting of chick peas, bulgar, feta cheese, yogurt and eggplant are some of their specialties.

As my waiter led me to a window seat on a bench lined with faded tapestry and throw pillows, my attention was drawn to the many brass artifacts scattered along shelves on a high wall. Above the counter, a piercing purple and orange sunset splashed behind a silhouette of resting camels and domed buildings.

I started off with one of the daily specials, the Garlic Dip garnished with tomatoes and olives, although my waiter warned me that it might be too strong. He served it with trepidation and shook his head somewhat disapprovingly when I promised not to breathe on anyone.

One taste of this tangy no-nonsense garlic sent the adrenaline rushing to my ears. Delicious as it was, even the heartiest garlic lover would be hard pressed to go further than a few bites. But the Borani, a cool dish of yogurt, pureed cucumbers and steamed spinach lightly flavored with garlic and garnished with fresh dill put the taste buds back on kilter.

Cold kidney beans may sound unappealing, but the Plake - kidney beans mixed with tomatoes, carrots, and potatoes with just a touch of onion and garlic and liberally sprinkled with fresh parsley - could have been a meal in itself. However I soldiered on to the Eggplant Imam Bayeld. Following the rich garlic appetizers and the satiating effect of the Plake, these baby eggplants stuffed with sautéed onions, mushrooms, green pepper, and tomatoes proved a tasteful respite.

While Cousins boasts a 70 percent vegetarian menu, other specialties include marinated lamb, beef and shrimp dishes all served with a healthy medley of sauteed vegetables. And to wash it down: a complimentary glass of dark tea served in a Turkish glass.

A second Cousins will open in Andersonsville next August.

Rating: 3 1/2 stars